Two Years

It's extraordinary how much the span of two short years can change a person. I find myself questioning how it's even possible.
I started this blog two years ago: two boyfriends, two houses, two cars, two jobs...ago. Back then I didn't own a kitchen scale, a stand mixer or a Silpat and the only cookbook in my kitchen was a 1984 copy of The Joy of Cooking, which is missing half of the index. But I started a food blog anyway and my very first entry was about chocolate chip cookies. I used almond flour, grapeseed oil and agave nectar instead of flour, butter and sugar. I called turbinado sugar "turbine sugar." Please never make them. Make these super moist, toasted oatmeal and chocolate chip cookies instead.
Back then I was confused; a little more confused than I am now about some things, a little less confused than I am now about others. Does that make any sense? Anyway, here we are.

Who are you now compared to who you were two years, five years, ten years ago?

These cookies are a hybrid of the New York Times chocolate chip cookies and Neiman Marcus chocolate chip cookies and Alton Brown's the chewy.

Hannah Messinger's chocolate chip cookies
Makes 22 large cookies
5 ounces old-fashioned oats
6.5 ounces bread flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup (two sticks) salted butter
10 ounces sugar, half brown, half white
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 large eggs at room temp
12 ounces semi-sweet chocolate chips
flaky salt

1. Melt 2 Tablespoons over butter over medium heat in a skillet. Toast oats, stirring occasionally, until they smell like popcorn. Pulse them in a food processor until they are as fine as possible. Whisk with other dry ingredients.

2. Cream butter and sugars together. Add eggs, one at a time, followed by vanilla. At a very low speed, mix in dry ingredients. Give about 1/4 of the chocolate chips a good chop- don't be tempted to do this step in the food processor because the heat from the motor will melt the chocolate. Fold in chocolate.

3. Cover tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 24 hours, or up to 72 hours. 

4. Preheat your oven to 350. Roll dough into 2 ounce balls and bake six at a time. The length that you bake your cookies will determine the texture. About 14 minutes will give you a good, chewy cookie. 18 minutes will give you a more old-fashioned, crispy cookie.

5. As soon as you pull your pan out of the oven, top the hot cookies with a sprinkle of salt. Let them rest for 5 minutes before transferring to a cooling rack.



Super Southern: Strawberry Cake

Summer in Tennessee smells like strawberries. Starting at the end of April and going through mid June, they grow in an absolutely rampant fashion- cultivated in fields, gardened in yards and wild on the side of the road. Some afternoons, when the sun warms the world up to 80 degrees or so, the nectarous scent permeates my mind to the point that all I can think about is: strawberry jam, strawberry ice cream, strawberry compote, strawberry chutney, strawberry pie, and on and on and on. 
More times than not, my mind lands on strawberry cake.
Here in the South, traditional strawberry cake is made with lots of sugar, strawberry Jello mix and frozen strawberries in syrup. The crumb is tender and intensely sweet. Each bite is molten with the juice from the berries. In my house, it's a dessert that signifies the start of Summer. And isn't that the best feeling, knowing that Summer is finally here?
My version of this Southern classic is notably less sweet and uses fresh strawberries instead of frozen. The one ingredient that you just can't skip is the strawberry gelatin, which gives the cake its unique texture and turns the batter the dreamiest shade of pink. 

Southern Strawberry Cake

1/2 cup (two sticks) salted butter
1 cup (about 7 ounces) raw cane sugar
4 large eggs at room temp
2 pounds strawberries, divided
3 cups (13.5 ounces) low protein flour*
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
3 ounces (one small package) strawberry gelatin
3/4 cup 2% buttermilk
1 pint (cold) whipping cream

1. Preheat oven to 350 with a rack in the middle. Butter and flour two 8" cake pans. 

2. Cream butter and sugar in a large bowl. Add eggs one at a time.

3. Pulse one pound strawberries in food processor until chunky, but not pureed. Add to bowl.

4. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and gelatin. Fold half of it into wet ingredients, followed by buttermilk and the other half. If your batter looks broken, that's okay- it's just the strawberries.

5. Let batter rest 15 minutes. Pour evenly into pans and bake for 30-35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Meanwhile, beat cream until semi-stiff peaks form and slice remaining strawberries.

6. Allow cake to cool for 15 minutes before flipping onto a rack. This is a very delicate cake, so be gentle. When layers are completely cool, decorate with whipped cream and sliced strawberries. Serve immediately after frosting. If you're planning on transporting this cake, bring layers and whipped cream and assemble on site.

* Such as cake flour or White Lilly all-purpose flour.

On Being Omnivorous

"No diet will remove all the fat from your body because the brain is made entirely of fat. Without a brain, you might look good, but all you could do is run for office." -George Bernard Shaw*
Strictly speaking, this quote is not entirely accurate. The brain is actually believed to be made up of 60% fat, but the message of the statement holds true: diets are dumb. And, like politicians, they all seem promising at first, but inevitably by the end you're like, that guy was seriously the worst.

Diets are presented and pushed, pandered and peddled to us by the media as a fix-all. The spokesmen of diets smile their white toothy smiles and tell us, pretty darned convincingly, that if we just stop eating carbs, eating meat, eating dairy, eating insert-pretty-much-anything-here, that we'll be skinny and therefore happy.

Well, speaking from experience, those things made me the opposite of happy. I actually just today learned a new word to describe how they make me feel (thanks Amanda and Beth). Omitting any one type of food from my diet makes me hungry and angry: HANGRY.
I asked my friends on Facebook "Which diets have you tried and how did they make you feel?" Answers ranged from the Atkins diet to the gluten-free dairy-free thing, to "It's called the beer and whiskey diet and I have to say I felt quite good." Some said that the diet in question made them feel great, healthier, "lighter," while others claimed that they felt constantly hungry. Every single person who answered had one thing in common- they didn't stick with it, not even the beer and whiskey diet.

Why? Because diets assume that we're all alike. Sure, we're all humans, Mitt Romney excluded, but each one of us is made up of a unique mix of DNA which means disparate gut bacteria, immune systems and colon length (yeah, you heard me: no two poop shoots are alike). As though that's not complicated enough, our varying lifestyles affect the type of nutrition we require.

The best advice I think I've given or received, ever, about anything, is to trust yourself. If you don't feel well after a meal, reflect on what you ate, how you ate it and the amount you consumed, then try to pinpoint what your body disliked. Only fear foods that are processed; don't be scared to consume natural ingredients like lard or raw cane sugar in moderation. Listen to your body; literally, turn off the TV, your cell phone and your computer while you eat and pay attention to what you're doing. Exercise and sleep regularly and your body will tell you the exactly what it needs. And yes, sometimes it needs a handful of french fries. I suppose that is one way that we are all alike.

Personally, I feel the best when I eat a lot of legumes and vegetables, some carbs and a little meat and dairy, with a modest dose of fermented foods (kombucha, yogurt, aged raw milk cheese, sauerkraut, etc.). Sugar is an occasional treat that I reserve for only the most delicious of homemade cakes, pies and Jeni's ice cream. Below is an a recipe with a lot of legumes and vegetables and a little meat, that can be mixed with carbs and dairy in different ways throughout the week.

Further reading:
In Defense of Food by Michael Pollen
"Human Ancestors were Nearly All Vegetarians" by Rob Dunn for The Scientific American

*Can anyone tell me which book, play or essay this quote is from?
This recipe is what I like to call a "Zublinka," from the book Zublinka Among Women, written by my friend and professor Robert Wexelblatt. In the beginning of the book the main character says, "Many things in life come in different ways and yet they're still the same. Newspapers and green beans, for example. That's how it is with me, isn't it? Whether I come on Sunday morning or on Tuesday night, I'm still your same old Zublinka." This lentil mix is still the same old five ingredients, still delicious, whether you eat it as a side dish, on top of a salad or grains, in tacos, crowned with a poached egg, or fried into a burger, on a Sunday morning or a Tuesday night.

1 link sausage (1/3 lb), casing removed
1 bunch kale, chopped and stems removed*
2 1/2 cups (17.6 oz) green or black cooked lentils 
1 cup stock
lemon pepper to taste

Brown sausage in a large cast iron skillet. Add kale and half of stock. When kale is wilted to your liking, add lentils and the rest of the stock. Season with lemon pepper to taste and leave in pan until lentils are heated through and most of the stock has been absorbed. I use spicy Italian sausage from Porter Road Butcher. The flavor of this dish is dependent on the quality of the sausage and stock, so choose accordingly.

Lentil Burger

Preheat about 1 teaspoon of coconut oil in a non-stick pan over medium. Pulse a heaping 1/2 cup of lentil mix and 1T rice flour until it is smooth enough to form into a patty, but not until it's complete mush. Make patties and cook for about four minutes per side. Serve immediately.

Pictured with smashed avocado, a squeeze of lime, a slice of tomato and grainy mustard. Also, if you don't like grainy mustard, I don't like you.

* Don't discard those stems! Boil them in salted water until they are no longer bitter, about eight minutes. Pulse them in a blender with 1/3 cup grated parmesan and 1/3 cup toasted pine nuts, plus salt, pepper and olive oil to taste, to make pesto.

Make-ahead mocha devil's food cupcakes

This past weekend was a doozy. My beautiful friend Colleen married the love of her life, Danny, and because they're both a little bit insane, they asked me to make the wedding cake and groom's cake.
We settled on a tall, straight (and boozy) Nikole Herriot-style cake for the main event and chocolate devil's food cupcakes for the groom's cake. I was so extraordinarily nervous about making and transporting a four layer cake that I decided to assemble the cupcakes the day before the wedding, just in case anything terrible happened. Now, generally speaking I'd be caught with my pants down before I served people day-old cupcakes, but that's the wonderful thing about devils' food: it's better the next day. 

Most books and websites say that devil's food cake is called as such because it's delicious to the point that people can't stop eating it, and thus commit the sin of gluttony. I don't buy that at all. I think that some old Southern woman, tired of baking at the most inconvenient of times, traded her soul to the Devil for cake that can be made ahead. And that's why it's so fiendishly good
The best part about devil's food cupcakes? It's little angels like my friend Carmen who like them the most!

Make-ahead mocha cupcakes
yield: 30 
adapted from Martha Stewart

3/4 cup cocoa powder
3/4 cup fresh, hot, medium roast coffee
3 cups (about 13.5 ounces) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3 sticks (1 1/2 cups) unsalted butter, melted
2 cups plus 2T raw cane sugar
4 large eggs, at room temp
1T vanilla
1 cup full fat greek yogurt (or sour cream)

Preheat oven to 350 and line cupcake tin.

Whisk coffee and cocoa together in a measuring cup until smooth. In a small bowl, whisk flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda. In a large bowl, beat butter with sugar until cool to the touch. Add eggs one at a time, followed by vanilla. Add coffee mixture. Finally, alternate folding in flour and sour cream, starting and ending with flour. Fill papers 3/4 of the way full and bake for 20 minutes, turning the pan half way through cooking.

Top with chocolate ganache (recipe follows) and chocolate shavings.

Chocolate Ganache
you will have some left over... 

1 pound bittersweet chocolate chips
3T light corn syrup (if you don't want to use corn syrup, whip up a batch of this)
2 1/3 cups heavy whipping cream
splash of Kahlua*

Put everything in a double boiler and whisk until smooth. Place in the fridge and whisk every 5-10 minutes until ganache begins to hold its shape, then use.

* I removed about 1.5 Tablespoons of cream and replaced it with Kahlua.


Last Night

Last night we played dress up. 
Indulged in chocolate cake and a juicy story about a 1920's speakeasy. 
Tippled champagne. 
And celebrated this girl, the beautiful bride-to-be.


What a night!